BYLINE: H.M. CAULEY
DATE: October 20, 2005
PUBLICATION: Atlanta Journal-Constitution, The (GA)
EDITION: Home; The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
SECTION: City Life Midtown

If it hadn't been for a project assignment in a business class at Georgia State University, Atlantans might not be enjoying garden omelets, Italian meatloaf and Toll House pie at Murphy's in Virginia-Highland.

Owner Tom Murphy turned his class project into a viable business back in 1980 and has spent the past 25 years updating and modernizing the concept. The original vision was a deli that opened on Los Angeles Avenue, where counter service and plastic utensils were the norm.

"I was raised in Atlanta but born in New York, and I remember going to visit there and seeing all these ethnic neighborhoods with wonderful delis that were like the pantry of someone's home," said Murphy, 48, who now lives in the Pine Hills neighborhood of Buckhead. "I wanted to create something like that. So I took my business plan from school, went to the bank and opened for business."

The idea was a hit with locals, who queued for homemade salads, soups and sandwiches served in wicker baskets. But it was the coffee that became the catalyst for a major change.

"My dad was the one who said we had great coffee but served it in lousy Styrofoam cups," Murphy said. "I finally broke down and bought some mugs. Well, that one purchase meant I needed bussers, a dishwasher and a dishwashing machine. At that point, I figured I might as well bring on some servers. That one little change flipped our concept from deli and takeout to a full-service restaurant."

Printed menus and dinner items soon followed. Some of those early dishes are still served at the restaurant today: "Linda's Garden Omelette," created by a server-turned cook, is still a big seller, as is the Italian meatloaf with spinach.

By 1992, the restaurant had found a following beyond the neighborhood. When his lease expired and the landlord opted to tear down the building to make a parking lot, Murphy scrambled for another place to accommodate the crowds. The answer was the current location, an expanded bungalow at 997 Virginia Ave.

Among the loyal diners who followed the relocation were Mark Dehler and his wife, Secretary of State Cathy Cox.

"I've been going there the entire 25 years," said Dehler, a DeKalb attorney. "It's evolved and they haven't always kept the same old thing on the menu; they've worked hard to keep ahead of the curve. . . . Part of the success is that Irish entrepreneurial spirit that is alive and well in Tom Murphy -- the way he greets people, pulls up a chair and talks to people."

Murphy says the secret to succeeding in a tough business is a combination of neighborhood support and outstanding staff.

"One of my most memorable moments was a few years ago when we went to the neighborhood civic association to get a variance for off-site parking," he recalled. "We had more than 250 people show up in support of us. This neighborhood is a great place to do business and is one of the reasons I'm still here.

"I also stand on the shoulders of fabulous talent -- men and women who are passionate about hospitality and have earned their credentials," he added. "That's something I've always looked for."

Some chefs who broke into the business working at Murphy's will be back in the restaurant next Wednesday for a cocktail event that celebrates the eatery and the debut of the cookbook "25 Years of Recipes and Memories." Among the chefs expected are Michael Tuohy of Woodfire Grill; Alon Balshan of Alon's Bakery; Gerry Klaskala of Aria; Shaun Doty of Table 1280; and Hector Santiago of Pura Vida. Tickets are $55 per person, and proceeds benefit Share Our Strength, a nonprofit that battles hunger worldwide.

The party may be the kickoff to the next quarter-century, Murphy said. "Hey, I have three kids to get through college," he said with a laugh. "I'm sure I have another 25 years in front of me."